It's a bit of drive to the Neon Bone Yard, where all the great old signs, those icons of Las Vegas,

Las Vegas is not my kind of place ... or so I had long thought. But within moments of my recent trip to downtown Las Vegas, I realized that we've both changed a great deal since my last visit. It seems Las Vegas has become much more my kind of place: artsy, funky, friendly, pedestrian and even a bit historic. Las Vegas has a central pulse now and it flows along Fremont Street.
I am a photographer and writer. Early in my career, Las Vegas was an annual pilgrimage for me; I'd go to the ski industry round the world airline tickets from australia convention or to photograph for Frontier Airlines . Back then, I dutifully, but without much joy, made my treks to Las Vegas. Most of the travels in my career have centered around round the world airline tickets from australia adventures but never let it be said that I passed up a good party. So, I am here in Vegas to relive my youth and to find out what downtown Las Vegas is all about these days.
I arrived at McCarran International Airport (LAS) after an early morning United Airlines flight originating from Madison, Wisconsin and connecting through Chicago. The extra legroom of Coach Plus is a comfortable improvement and something I did not fully appreciate until my return flight, stuffed into regular coach.
It's always a welcome sight to see a limo driver holding a placard with your name on it. One thing Las Vegas definitely got right is the location of the airport; it's just a short ride to either the strip or downtown in the Lexus from Alan Waxler Group, (877-792-9537). We drove along, passing the fantasy landscape of the famous Las Vegas strip hotels. It looked like there had been a strange round the world airline tickets from australia incident round the world airline tickets from australia the night before, the remnants of which were still visible as we passed The Luxor . Yellow police tape fluttered in the desert breeze as news crews from local stations set up live shots. My driver pointed out the scene to me -- an overnight car bombing -- with the cautionary comment, "He just pissed someone off bad." He luridly adds details that I'm sure he hopes will heighten the excitement of my first visit to Las Vegas in some 15 years.
The brassy porte cochere round the world airline tickets from australia is my first glimpse of the newly renovated, four-star Golden Nugget (800-846-5336) in nearly 20 years and it looks much younger than I do. After a lengthy wait for my chance to step up to the polished wood check-in counter, I'm told that I have VIP check-in (room rates are $70 - $300). Unfortunately, waiting in line has pretty much killed the cachet of a VIP check-in ($15), especially after having to lug my bags around the corner and into the lounge. Eventually, I make my way up to my room. A housekeeping cart blocks my way. My room door is open and I can see that my room is not yet ready. They say that first impressions round the world airline tickets from australia are all-important round the world airline tickets from australia and after a very bright first impression, The Golden Nugget went dull on check-in and was now darkening further as I waited longingly just outside the door to my room. I must be missing the purpose of the VIP lounge; shouldn't they keep you there, rested and distracted, possibly even with the offer of a drink, until your room is fully ready? When I'm finally granted entry, I find that my room is well appointed but not extraordinary. Of course, at that point, it would have taken a Vegas showgirl to improve my mood.
Thankfully, I have a bit of time to rest. There's nothing like a shower, some time alone and the prospect of a party to shake off the weariness. I'm in Vegas now, BABY! My attitude is already improving.
My room has a very comfortable king-sized bed. The beige and green tones with golden accents give the room a calming appeal. The room features a full-size desk, an in-room safe, an iron and ironing board and a hair dryer. A high speed Internet connection ($12/day) is available in all deluxe rooms and suites. My favorite touches are the stylish white robe and slippers, adorned with the Golden Nugget monogram.
The hotel offers round the world airline tickets from australia amenities such as bell service, complimentary valet and self-parking, express checkout, safe deposit boxes, in-room movies and same-day laundry service. The concierge can book a tee-time at any one of 30+ golf courses. The bell desk can handle tennis and sightseeing arrangements. round the world airline tickets from australia There's a full spa and health club ($20/day use fee plus a la carte charges). The Golden Nugget hosts an elegant watch shop carrying brands such as Longines , Montblanc and Rado . Style and Trend, a men's and women's clothing store, is also on site.
The location alone makes the Golden Nugget a great base of operations round the world airline tickets from australia in downtown Las Vegas. When you add the services and amenities of this caliber, it becomes the premier hotel property in downtown Las Vegas. There are three restaurants, three bars, the Rush Lounge, the Carson Street Café and Starbucks. They also have what every hotel in Vegas must have -- a buffet. The buffet prices range from $9 for the weekday breakfast to $20 for the Seafood and More dinner.
I am looking forward to meeting my hosts, the other journalists and having a drink at The Tank, the newly renovated poolside bar. Harpina, a beautiful and gracious server, intercepts me and her smile improves my mood further. A cold beer sounds more to my liking than the selection of wines that were at the ready in the cabana. The brightly decorated second floor cabanas are available for rent (Mon-Thu $150 / Fri-Sun $200) whether for couples looking for a bit of "public privacy" overlooking the pool or as a place to throw a party for your poker and golf buddies.
Harpina, with her big brown eyes and my beer, returns just as a booming voice descends upon the group. The first words I hear him say are, "I HOPE we have something to DRINK here," as he gives an alarmed glance at the wines. Harpina is soon at his side and I overhear him asking her to drown some olives in an excruciatingly dry martini. I immediately want to party with him. Mayor Oscar Goodman is not your typical mayor. He was purportedly asked by a group of fifth graders what one item he would wish to have, were he marooned on a deserted island? "A bottle of gin," was his rejoinder. In his former career, he represented businessmen with reported mob ties and then graduated to representing Las Vegas as its chief PR agent. He seems a perfect match for the brashness of Las Vegas.
The party moves indoors. Vic and Anthony's (800-634-3403) is a rather recent addition to The Golden Nugget, yet it feels like a restaurant with history. The steak house ambiance is warm and welcoming. The menu is a la carte and entrees round the world airline tickets from australia range from $22 to $46. The iceberg wedge salad ($8) is huge and especially cold and crisp. My New York strip steak (market price) is perfectly prepared, tender and flavorful, served with a trio of vegetables and a baked potato. Food, wine and conversation are a great way to get to know my fellow travelers. A flourless Valrhona chocolate cake ($10) is a decadent capstone to a fine meal.
The party moves outdoors and east on foot on Fremont Street. We cross Las Vegas Boulevard and venture about a half block to the south. There is neither a sign nor a discernible door for Downtown Cocktail Room (DCR; 702-880-DOWN). The DCR is secret Vegas and hidden chic. We eventually locate the door and enter into a welcoming atmosphere of secluded tables, progressive/alternative music and red walls vibrating with paintings by local artist Mike Wardle . Watching non-regulars through the smoked glass outside the entrance blindly grope for the door must be a constant source of entertainment for the regulars. The place suits me to a tee; they know how to make a Caipirinha , my favorite Brazilian cocktail . The DCR cocktail menu ($7to $9) lists many old favorites: Sidecars, Manhattans, Gimlets and several not-so-familiar concoctions like Bangkok Streetlight, Cucumber Martini, Pisco Sours and Downtown Ginger. If I were a Las Vegas denizen, I'd be a regular here. Owner Michael Cornthwaite makes all who enter feel like it's their place not his. This was a great place to end my first night back in the New Vegas.
What else does Las Vegas have to offer besides bars, babes, betting and buffets? I'm about to find out. We're off to visit some of downtown Las Vegas' features round the world airline tickets from australia just out of the city center with Celebrity Tours. round the world airline tickets from australia To call the vehicle we are riding in a bus is most inappropriate. Rather, it's a rolling party with disco decor, great for group cruising.
The first stop is the Arts District and S2 Graphics. S2 produces round the world airline tickets from australia some of the finest limited edition prints and were a fixture in SoHo in NYC for years before making the move west to the newly designated Arts District. The Arts District is most active on First Fridays when businesses, galleries and artist round the world airline tickets from australia studios remain open into the evening.
But back to the coach and on to our next stop. The Viva Las Vegas Wedding Chapel is everything you dreamed it might be, a few things you feared it would be and perhaps, even a bit kitschier than you expected it should be ... even with a name like Viva Las Vegas. Here, you can be delivered to the altar in a pink Caddie by guess who? The King, of course! round the world airline tickets from australia If you're so inclined, you can have Elvis marry you while belting out It's Now or Never. You can also choose from several other theme weddings such as Goth, 50s Diner or a more traditional garden theme. We are treated to a faux Elvis soiree for two of our travel-writing compatriots. Bill and Lark dance their way through the ceremony and out of legal matrimony through a loophole in the process; no marriage license. However, if you do dot the i's and cross the t's, your Elvis nuptials, replete with photo coverage and a live web cast, will be perfectly legal. Prices start at around $150.
It's a bit of drive to the Neon Bone Yard, where all the great old signs, those icons of Las Vegas, come to retire. round the world airline tickets from australia The Neon Museum will eventually be built on part of this property to house some of the rejuvenated neon signs. The Neon Bone Yard reminds me a bit of a macabre carnival in the process of setting up. It is unfortunate that they don't allow any photos to be taken while on the grounds unless you p